G'day,
I get a bit long winded here but how else am I not to embellish my travels.
Dural (NSW) to Honolulu, Hawaii
Dropped the bike off at BMW Sydney for crating and further transport. Next caught the train to the International Airport. As my flight wasn't until 2200hrs and I had 6 hours of mindless activity to consume my time. The internet was free and as was the selection of fat pills ever so available at every vendors counter top. The flight was 9 hours and believe it or not they actually had 2 movies that made sense. No kids or babies within 10 rows (what a Grinch!) so it was a pleasant flight back to traffic, noise, crowds and the tax man.
It was a grand total of 2 months on the byways of Australia.
Let’s do the numbers and final comments.
January Thru March 2008: 15,000km adding 30,000km from last year (2007) and the final tally= 45,000km
2008: Starting from (noted clothes designer for the tennis groupies) Kinglake, Melbourne where I left the bike in September 2007. Traveled to Portland, farmer and wife, next up to Adelaide with the homeless couple. Returned to Melbourne catching the ferry to Tasmania. Around Tassie then back across the Bass Strait into Melbourne staying with the Mafioso of chicken plucker's. Next up and around the Snowy River National Park, Victoria before heading north west into New South Wales and Broken Hill. From Broken Hill my intentions were to head to Birdsville. But road conditions, distance between petrol stations and just a bit of common sense (finally!!) prevailed. Finally decided that I don't need to get myself into trouble at this late of date. So it was off to the east coast, going around in small circles, then down to Sidney for the last week of my stay.
Good:
1. Again I can not stress enough the friendliness of the Australia people. A conversation with strangers was the norm. And if I used enough Yank BS, I had a name and an invite to return and stay with them.
2. The open road, caravan sites.
3. Bakery’s, finally got away from Mrs. Mac's Beef Pot pies.
4. Library's for their broadband Internet access.
5. Caravan Follies: This happens right around 1500hrs and continues for the next 3 hours. People that have been on the road all day come into the caravan sites with every imaginable vehicle possible. Mom gets out and tries to direct dad in parking the caravan into the smallest parking space possible. Now this evolution generally comes to an argument, swearing, cursing your family relations and all to the enjoyment of the neighbors.
The next show time follies are just before dust. Dad comes out of the caravan and sets up 2 chairs and table. Goes over to the cooler and grabs a bottle of cheap New Zealand wine and mom is not too far behind with a platter of food. It is the social hour where the day’s events come to the fore. Discussions center on whether or not it will be plastic plates tonight for tea or the cost of the latest gadget widget that dad thinks is necessary for survival of the specie's.
Bad:
1. Trash: if I had one problem on my travels was the amount of trash (bottles, plastic, etc.) that I saw along the roads. Hawaii has the same problem and it’s not the tourist that is the cause of trash we see daily. It’s your own home grown people that treat the environment as a waste bin. Enough said!
2. Flies and mosquitos: Tasmania was the worst in my travels. I think that Victoria and New South Wales ships the bugs to Tassie just to irritate the locals.
3. There might be a bit of disagreement here all dependent on just how close people got to me after wearing the same clothes......... Where as last year during the winter months when the temperatures where in the single digits life was good. This past trip with temps in the upper 30’s (80-90F). By the end of the day after wearing motorcycle clothing, I believe at times road kill smelled better!
4. Constant pain to both the right and left wrist and hand. The right hand giving me the most problems due to the constant tension of holding the throttle. The right hand even at night would hurt enough to wake me up. Just the joy's of being on the bike.
Motorcycle BMW 650GS
Repairs: Sydney BMW; replacing the front fork seals.
Melbourne BMW; changing brake fluid
Tyres: The Mitas tyres lasted 15,000km
and a new set was put on in Sydney
Oil changes (2) and replacement of coolant
Tools: Bead breaker, 2 tyre irons, front/back tyre tubes, air compressor, tool bag, assorted nuts/bolts, litre of engine oil, can of lubricant, assorted BMW repair parts, 2 litre bottle of coolant.
Motorcycle Clothing:
Dri-rider jacket, BMW trousers, rain gear trousers, suspenders, SIDI boots, Noland Helmet, summer gloves, bright day-glow jacket over motorcycle jacket, ear plugs
Accessories:
4 season 2 man tent, sleeping bag, inflatable air mattress and pillow, 2 one litre fuel bottles, 4 one litre water bottles, assorted nylon ties, clothes pins, washing up liquid, paper towels, Oz Motorcycle Atlas, head lamp, radio, cell, 40 gig hard drive, camera battery charger, plastic bags, rubber mallet, paper back books, 3 leg stool, thongs(flip flops), sandals, 1 long sleeve shirt, 4 T shirts, 3 shorts, toilet kit, towel.
Navigation: Garmin GPSmap 60Cx with Australia Mapsource City Navigator installed.
Cameras:
Canon 20D SLR digital. Camera's digital len's failed had to buy new one in Hobart, Tasmania.
Canon G5 Point and Shoot
Emergency backup:
1. Cell phone (Telstra)
2. EPIRB; emergency satellite beacon
3. Medical Flight Insurance
4. NRMA insurance for the bike along with road side assistance for recovery.
And for your reading pleasure I have the following references for those that have nothing else better to do during your idle hours.........
The Wild White Man of Badu Ion Idriess
The Dig Tree Sarah Murgatroyd
Cattle King Ion Idriess
Cooper's Creek Alan Moorehead
Explorations in Australia John Forest
The Explorers William Joy
Great Australian Explorers Marcia McEwan
Australia's Last Explorer: Ernest Giles
Geoffrey Dutton
The Voyages of Matthew Flinders Max Colwell
Camels and the Outback H.M.Baker
The Men that God Forgot Richard Butler
(Convicts-Sarah Is)
The Fatal Shore Robert Huges
Western Tasmania Charles Waitham
And finally,
The Grey Nomad
Friday, March 28, 2008
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
March 18 - Armidale to Dural (NSW)
What happens when you find a gallon container of chocolate chip ice cream in the freezer and there is no one around.......... Being of the mind that ice cream regardless of its shape, color or age has to be consumed in the most fashionable manner.
Another factoid that should be noted. I have found Cadbury Chocolate bars in the 400 gram size in Dural Woolworth's. My carry on for my return trip to Hawaii could be compromised......
Armidale to Dural
The dew factor in Armidal is unbelievable. As soon as the sun sets everything is wet. The caravan site is just off the main road and it was just a great site to stay at. The town of Armidale has everything you need. And for you shopper's out there, a brand new mall to really hit your fancy. Tent and anything left out was wet and was packed away wet. Taking Rt 15 south out of Armidale to Uralla then through Walcha. From here we are on the Thunderbolt Way to Gloucester. This and I will remind you again, this road has to be the most enjoyable sealed road that I've been on since touring Oz.
The only down side of this particular trip was following two trucks with live cattle. Just believe me that coming up on cattle trucks which are dumping cattle waste(being nice here!) is an experience that you won't forget. Got around these suckers as quick as possible. The smell is almost as good as fresh road kill that's been out in the heat for a week or two.
From Gloucester we head for Singleton, turn on Route 84 then Route 69 for Windsor. Route 69 is the Putty Road and is a bikers dream for curves until you get to the Halfway Roadhouse. Everything south of that levels out and there you are in Windsor and the caravan park in Drawl. Spent a few down days there and Friday was under way for Clarence Town just north of Maitland.
Got there and if life was not bad enough met up with a pommie couple out of Sydney starting on a 3 year vacation traveling the world in a, you have to do some deep breathing on this one, Land Rover...... Must be the showing of the flag. As I am not one to make off comments about people, this couple is just too good to pass up. She is from Wales and quite young, speaks little or no english. He is from the midlands and roughly 60 years old and wears a hair piece that does little for him and is held on with suction cups. He met his wife through a single women's magazine out of Wales, there is a bit of an age difference but they seem to be happy. Isn't life just too good!
Clarence Town
It was to Barrington National Park and gravel roads about for the day. Just a great place to get lost in and enjoy the country side.
Clarence Town to Dural
South to Maitland, turning off route 84/69 then through Bulga next through Broke (wine country) then Wollombi. Still heading south to Bucketty before turning on the gravel road to St Albans and Wisemans Ferry. A short ride on the ferry then south to Dural and the caravan park.
Dural
BMW motorcycle replacing the front fork seals again and my credit card taking another major hit. It seems that the Darwin BMW mechanic when replacing the front fork seals initially had bugger up the job. Just love those German mechanic's......
I sit in the Dural Library this day and within hours I will have the bike to the BMW dealer. Who will pack the bike away for pickup in the next day or so for shipment back to the USA.
Australia has been just a great experience and have met so many great people over my travels. There is one more email that will do the numbers and a few choice comments.
The Grey Nomad
Another factoid that should be noted. I have found Cadbury Chocolate bars in the 400 gram size in Dural Woolworth's. My carry on for my return trip to Hawaii could be compromised......
Armidale to Dural
The dew factor in Armidal is unbelievable. As soon as the sun sets everything is wet. The caravan site is just off the main road and it was just a great site to stay at. The town of Armidale has everything you need. And for you shopper's out there, a brand new mall to really hit your fancy. Tent and anything left out was wet and was packed away wet. Taking Rt 15 south out of Armidale to Uralla then through Walcha. From here we are on the Thunderbolt Way to Gloucester. This and I will remind you again, this road has to be the most enjoyable sealed road that I've been on since touring Oz.
The only down side of this particular trip was following two trucks with live cattle. Just believe me that coming up on cattle trucks which are dumping cattle waste(being nice here!) is an experience that you won't forget. Got around these suckers as quick as possible. The smell is almost as good as fresh road kill that's been out in the heat for a week or two.
From Gloucester we head for Singleton, turn on Route 84 then Route 69 for Windsor. Route 69 is the Putty Road and is a bikers dream for curves until you get to the Halfway Roadhouse. Everything south of that levels out and there you are in Windsor and the caravan park in Drawl. Spent a few down days there and Friday was under way for Clarence Town just north of Maitland.
Got there and if life was not bad enough met up with a pommie couple out of Sydney starting on a 3 year vacation traveling the world in a, you have to do some deep breathing on this one, Land Rover...... Must be the showing of the flag. As I am not one to make off comments about people, this couple is just too good to pass up. She is from Wales and quite young, speaks little or no english. He is from the midlands and roughly 60 years old and wears a hair piece that does little for him and is held on with suction cups. He met his wife through a single women's magazine out of Wales, there is a bit of an age difference but they seem to be happy. Isn't life just too good!
Clarence Town
It was to Barrington National Park and gravel roads about for the day. Just a great place to get lost in and enjoy the country side.
Clarence Town to Dural
South to Maitland, turning off route 84/69 then through Bulga next through Broke (wine country) then Wollombi. Still heading south to Bucketty before turning on the gravel road to St Albans and Wisemans Ferry. A short ride on the ferry then south to Dural and the caravan park.
Dural
BMW motorcycle replacing the front fork seals again and my credit card taking another major hit. It seems that the Darwin BMW mechanic when replacing the front fork seals initially had bugger up the job. Just love those German mechanic's......
I sit in the Dural Library this day and within hours I will have the bike to the BMW dealer. Who will pack the bike away for pickup in the next day or so for shipment back to the USA.
Australia has been just a great experience and have met so many great people over my travels. There is one more email that will do the numbers and a few choice comments.
The Grey Nomad
Thursday, March 13, 2008
March 13th - Warrumbungle NP to Armidale (NSW)
Warrumbungle National Park
Still at Warrumbungle. We leave for Coonabarabran (try saying that in one breath!) for the bakery. While there the bike continues to attract people due to the Hawaiian license plate and the number of travel stickers that I have on my panniers. It was north through Baradine then up the dirt road to Philliga (70km). This town and all through this region has been hit hard due to the drought as it is cotton country. You couldn't wish for the worst product to grow then cotton in the dry years. Unemployment is double digits with no relief in sight. Any how it was a stop at the local ice cream parlor where I heard all of the latest gossip.
Leaving town going back down another dirt road I have in my rear view mirror a road train about kilometer behind me and bringing a dust storm with it. Knowing that the road within another kilometer goes sealed, it was throttle to the floor for me beamer. I just beat the road train to the sealed road by 500 meters and the truckie acknowledge this by waving his hand and a loud horn salute.
From Philliga to Coonamble, south to Gulargambone and the back way into the national park. Nice ride with sections of gravel.
Warrumbungle to Mount Seaview
Out of the gate early as everyone else seems to be leaving also. Stopping for breakfast at my favorite bakery(you really don't want me to spell out that city's name again!!?) and knowing that I did not want to take the motorway to Tamworth. I found a series of secondary roads that you just did not want to end. Out to Quirindi and at Caroona we change for Werris Creek then into Tamworth. Tamworth (rt 15) to Walcha (rt 34) heading in the Port Macquarie direction. Route 34 should not be missed as it covers the national parks, forest reserves, farm land. After going through every twist and curve possible and with the sun beginning to set on the horizon. Mount Seaview came into view and it was a no brainer to spend the night there as I was the only one. Just a beautiful place to spend anytime at all. Quite and the cabin was the same price as the tent site.
Mount Seaview to South West Rocks
After the morning cuppa, it was down the road to Wauchope, through Port Macquarie then catching route 1 into Kempsey. From Kempsey we follow the road to Crescent Head then north to Hat Head NP. The road follows the river all of the way to the ocean. Just a great picturesque ride. Reminds you of the canals in England and France.
South West Rocks to Armidale
Into South West Rocks, this place is tourism with the capital T. Spending the night and going to all of the right tourist spots just about makes your day........where is the bottle shop when you need it. Next morning with a heavy dew and the tent just a bit wet it was down the road back to Kempsey. From Kempsey we go north west through Bellbrook then its gravel for the next 80km, this road is a feeway in comparison to the gravel road to Jindabyne.
I have cleaned up my thoughts to some degree concerning the village idiots that I met coming the other way.......believe me on this though, the Gene pool would be missing a few individuals! Getting back to the sealed road we are into Armidale for 2 nights. Seems that my socks have finally failed the sniff test.
The Grey Nomad
Still at Warrumbungle. We leave for Coonabarabran (try saying that in one breath!) for the bakery. While there the bike continues to attract people due to the Hawaiian license plate and the number of travel stickers that I have on my panniers. It was north through Baradine then up the dirt road to Philliga (70km). This town and all through this region has been hit hard due to the drought as it is cotton country. You couldn't wish for the worst product to grow then cotton in the dry years. Unemployment is double digits with no relief in sight. Any how it was a stop at the local ice cream parlor where I heard all of the latest gossip.
Leaving town going back down another dirt road I have in my rear view mirror a road train about kilometer behind me and bringing a dust storm with it. Knowing that the road within another kilometer goes sealed, it was throttle to the floor for me beamer. I just beat the road train to the sealed road by 500 meters and the truckie acknowledge this by waving his hand and a loud horn salute.
From Philliga to Coonamble, south to Gulargambone and the back way into the national park. Nice ride with sections of gravel.
Warrumbungle to Mount Seaview
Out of the gate early as everyone else seems to be leaving also. Stopping for breakfast at my favorite bakery(you really don't want me to spell out that city's name again!!?) and knowing that I did not want to take the motorway to Tamworth. I found a series of secondary roads that you just did not want to end. Out to Quirindi and at Caroona we change for Werris Creek then into Tamworth. Tamworth (rt 15) to Walcha (rt 34) heading in the Port Macquarie direction. Route 34 should not be missed as it covers the national parks, forest reserves, farm land. After going through every twist and curve possible and with the sun beginning to set on the horizon. Mount Seaview came into view and it was a no brainer to spend the night there as I was the only one. Just a beautiful place to spend anytime at all. Quite and the cabin was the same price as the tent site.
Mount Seaview to South West Rocks
After the morning cuppa, it was down the road to Wauchope, through Port Macquarie then catching route 1 into Kempsey. From Kempsey we follow the road to Crescent Head then north to Hat Head NP. The road follows the river all of the way to the ocean. Just a great picturesque ride. Reminds you of the canals in England and France.
South West Rocks to Armidale
Into South West Rocks, this place is tourism with the capital T. Spending the night and going to all of the right tourist spots just about makes your day........where is the bottle shop when you need it. Next morning with a heavy dew and the tent just a bit wet it was down the road back to Kempsey. From Kempsey we go north west through Bellbrook then its gravel for the next 80km, this road is a feeway in comparison to the gravel road to Jindabyne.
I have cleaned up my thoughts to some degree concerning the village idiots that I met coming the other way.......believe me on this though, the Gene pool would be missing a few individuals! Getting back to the sealed road we are into Armidale for 2 nights. Seems that my socks have finally failed the sniff test.
The Grey Nomad
Monday, March 10, 2008
March 10th Broken Hill to Warrumbungle National Park (NSW)
Broken Hill to White Cliffs
Leaving Broken Hill for points north. for all intent and purposes it was to Tibooburre (300km +) over both sealed and dirt roads.Welllllll the sealed part was a walk in the park but when we get to the dirt life gets a bit rough. Its either corrugations or bull dust and knowing that I had 250km to go and realizing that I would be returning on the same road....... It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that it is time to turn around especially when you realize that your max speed is 20-30km per hour.
Its back down to Broken Hill and points east. Pretty much a straight run into Wilcannia. In Wilcannia we find the buildings are either bordered up or have iron bars across the windows. Not a sort of a place to spend the night so its up to White Cliffs, another hot spot for opal. Into the caravan sight and being that you are the only person there you have the choice of spots along with the wide screen plasma TV. Wind is blowing a bit and thinking that I had the tent anchored with my foot, it was tent over the fence, through the pasture and the only saving grace for me was the tent getting caught up on a monument 200 meters away. Tent back to the caravan sight and a German couple pull in and I am talked to for the next 2 hours on how bad the economy is in Germany and how they are taxed to the max.
White Cliffs to Cobar
Flat front tyre from the thorns around the booming metropolis of White Cliffs. Pumped the tyre up and kept this up every 50km down to Wilcannia and into Cobar. Motorcycle shop had a tyre sealer that is still working as of this date but the goop has caused an unbalance with the tyre but it does work. Cobar had a great caravan site, top shelf bakery and goodies to eat with that extra 2 inches to your waist line.
Cobar to Carinia
Leaving Cobar on route 32 to Nyngan next through Nevertire with a turn to Warren. Warren is a neat little town that is worth spending a night but I needed to get north. It was a very long drive down a sealed road to Carinia and be blessed that you are not doing this during the wet as it is one lane. Just listening to stories of people getting stuck if they had to pull off the road was a very common story of sorts. Into Carinia and does life get any better then having a free stop sleeping in the ruby building. Free showers and toilets along with a massive influx of mosquito's at night. What I should have done was put the tent up inside the building and sleep the sleep of the blessed. And of course we had the local dog start barking at 0100 and continued until 0300hrs.
Next morning it was gravel and sealed road to Walgett, breakfast and a bit of the blarney with follow bikers. Leaving Walgett we head for Coonamble, Baradine, Coonabaraban and finally into Warrumbungle National Park. Me tent mates was a couple from Austria, couple from France, Germany and Aussie including yours truely the Yank. A bit like the United Nations with showers of bore water..........
The Grey Nomad
Leaving Broken Hill for points north. for all intent and purposes it was to Tibooburre (300km +) over both sealed and dirt roads.Welllllll the sealed part was a walk in the park but when we get to the dirt life gets a bit rough. Its either corrugations or bull dust and knowing that I had 250km to go and realizing that I would be returning on the same road....... It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that it is time to turn around especially when you realize that your max speed is 20-30km per hour.
Its back down to Broken Hill and points east. Pretty much a straight run into Wilcannia. In Wilcannia we find the buildings are either bordered up or have iron bars across the windows. Not a sort of a place to spend the night so its up to White Cliffs, another hot spot for opal. Into the caravan sight and being that you are the only person there you have the choice of spots along with the wide screen plasma TV. Wind is blowing a bit and thinking that I had the tent anchored with my foot, it was tent over the fence, through the pasture and the only saving grace for me was the tent getting caught up on a monument 200 meters away. Tent back to the caravan sight and a German couple pull in and I am talked to for the next 2 hours on how bad the economy is in Germany and how they are taxed to the max.
White Cliffs to Cobar
Flat front tyre from the thorns around the booming metropolis of White Cliffs. Pumped the tyre up and kept this up every 50km down to Wilcannia and into Cobar. Motorcycle shop had a tyre sealer that is still working as of this date but the goop has caused an unbalance with the tyre but it does work. Cobar had a great caravan site, top shelf bakery and goodies to eat with that extra 2 inches to your waist line.
Cobar to Carinia
Leaving Cobar on route 32 to Nyngan next through Nevertire with a turn to Warren. Warren is a neat little town that is worth spending a night but I needed to get north. It was a very long drive down a sealed road to Carinia and be blessed that you are not doing this during the wet as it is one lane. Just listening to stories of people getting stuck if they had to pull off the road was a very common story of sorts. Into Carinia and does life get any better then having a free stop sleeping in the ruby building. Free showers and toilets along with a massive influx of mosquito's at night. What I should have done was put the tent up inside the building and sleep the sleep of the blessed. And of course we had the local dog start barking at 0100 and continued until 0300hrs.
Next morning it was gravel and sealed road to Walgett, breakfast and a bit of the blarney with follow bikers. Leaving Walgett we head for Coonamble, Baradine, Coonabaraban and finally into Warrumbungle National Park. Me tent mates was a couple from Austria, couple from France, Germany and Aussie including yours truely the Yank. A bit like the United Nations with showers of bore water..........
The Grey Nomad
Sunday, March 2, 2008
March 2nd - Tumut to Broken Hill (New South Wales)
If traveling along sealed roads in New South Wales and counting the number of bugs hitting your face shield is the high light of your travel for the day..... things are getting bad
Tumut to Darlington Point
Right now I am drawing a blank as to what really Tumut was or did. It must be another senior moment that no one likes to comment on! Any way got pointed in the right direction and the first port of call was Wagga Wagga and the Sturt Highway. We continue on through Narrandera and being that the ride is really getting boring I pull into Darlington Point for the night. A camp site right along the rivers edge and just minutes away from the bottle shop. After running around buying all of the proper food sources that are at the top of the food pyramid, we settle in for the night. The next tent over at about 0200hrs had an awaking with her boom box and this lasted about an hour. Certain songs would go another 50 decibels which of course entertained the township 3km's away....
Darlington Point to Mildura
Finding a dirt road that parallel the Sturt Highway to Hay was a break in the routine and actually crossing an old functional cantilever bridge. Had a wooden deck that would cause grief to anyone pushing a bicycle though due to the gaps in the planking. From Hay through Balranald and finally into Mildura for the night.
Mildura to Broken Hill
Leaving Mildura and through Wentworth we are now on the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill. The road is straight and open which lends itself to paying attention to the scenery. A big change from concentrating going through the snowy mountains where watching the road was a full time event. Wild life were as follows; Emu adult with 6 chicks, wild goats by the handful, Roo's and the ever present Aussie eagle.
Broken Hill was founded on large deposits of silver, lead and zinc. Will be spending 2 nights here and have reacquainted myself with the local fly population. Broken Hill has a lot going for it; a great book store, library, boutique shops and everything shuts down on Sunday. Except for Woolworths which is packed....
Broken Hill
It was a day trip out to Menindee (SE of Broken Hill). Has a national park and lakes for entertainment. Stopped at the local take away and noticed the aboriginal art on the wall. Got pointed to one of the local artist but not being home I was back to the take away. come to find out what I was looking at was reprints for $90.00. If the prints were going for that much I could just imagine how much an original would cost. So being the prudent investor that I am, I quietly slipped out of town for Broken Hill. On the way back came across another group of Emu's along side of the road. Stopped the bike and just sat there as they slowly came back to me. When they were just across the road and it looked if they had intentions of crossing I decided that it just might be time to move on before I really got myself into a bit of a problem. Back to the caravan site and another great night.
What does a litre of apple/pear juice, a slab of cheese and a bag of chips do for you...? How about 5 trips to the loo for a start!
The Grey Nomad
Tumut to Darlington Point
Right now I am drawing a blank as to what really Tumut was or did. It must be another senior moment that no one likes to comment on! Any way got pointed in the right direction and the first port of call was Wagga Wagga and the Sturt Highway. We continue on through Narrandera and being that the ride is really getting boring I pull into Darlington Point for the night. A camp site right along the rivers edge and just minutes away from the bottle shop. After running around buying all of the proper food sources that are at the top of the food pyramid, we settle in for the night. The next tent over at about 0200hrs had an awaking with her boom box and this lasted about an hour. Certain songs would go another 50 decibels which of course entertained the township 3km's away....
Darlington Point to Mildura
Finding a dirt road that parallel the Sturt Highway to Hay was a break in the routine and actually crossing an old functional cantilever bridge. Had a wooden deck that would cause grief to anyone pushing a bicycle though due to the gaps in the planking. From Hay through Balranald and finally into Mildura for the night.
Mildura to Broken Hill
Leaving Mildura and through Wentworth we are now on the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill. The road is straight and open which lends itself to paying attention to the scenery. A big change from concentrating going through the snowy mountains where watching the road was a full time event. Wild life were as follows; Emu adult with 6 chicks, wild goats by the handful, Roo's and the ever present Aussie eagle.
Broken Hill was founded on large deposits of silver, lead and zinc. Will be spending 2 nights here and have reacquainted myself with the local fly population. Broken Hill has a lot going for it; a great book store, library, boutique shops and everything shuts down on Sunday. Except for Woolworths which is packed....
Broken Hill
It was a day trip out to Menindee (SE of Broken Hill). Has a national park and lakes for entertainment. Stopped at the local take away and noticed the aboriginal art on the wall. Got pointed to one of the local artist but not being home I was back to the take away. come to find out what I was looking at was reprints for $90.00. If the prints were going for that much I could just imagine how much an original would cost. So being the prudent investor that I am, I quietly slipped out of town for Broken Hill. On the way back came across another group of Emu's along side of the road. Stopped the bike and just sat there as they slowly came back to me. When they were just across the road and it looked if they had intentions of crossing I decided that it just might be time to move on before I really got myself into a bit of a problem. Back to the caravan site and another great night.
What does a litre of apple/pear juice, a slab of cheese and a bag of chips do for you...? How about 5 trips to the loo for a start!
The Grey Nomad
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
February 26th - Omeo (Victoria) to Tumut (New South Wales)
As of this date Orbost has the cheapest 2 litre box of wine, matter of fact just about every other store in Orbost has a liquid license .... another factoid worth noting.
Omeo to Orbost
Omeo to Benambra, stopping at the local petrol station for advice. So up the Limestone gravel road we go and maintained in decent shape for farmer traffic. Once we connect to the Benambra road (Alpine National Park) everything goes to hell quickly. Rutted, corrugated, washed out and anything else that comes to mind. Once back to the main gravel road life improves an 100 per cent. Gravel and sealed into Orbost is a comfortable ride. The Orbost caravan site, well the kitchen area would need a fire hose just to clean it up for beginners, then improve the lighting and get rid of the concrete tables and chairs, but who am I to complain when I can wear the same clothes for 7-10 days at a time.
Orbost (Victoria) to Jindabyne (NSW)
First stop was the bakery, I don't know what I consumed but I hit every loo up to the NSW border. With rain and gale force winds behind me it was north on route C612 to Bonang. It was curves all of the way up and all through a forest reserve. I could think of other places to drive but it was there to be driven and it was going where I wanted to go by the end of the day. At Bonang you turn left on C611 for Mckillops Bridge. Now things start to get interesting, we are back to gravel and the road gets really narrow. And being that it was Sunday, I didn't hit any traffic coming my way. I didn't see any traffic until I got to the bridge and then I encounter 6 4WD's with outback trailers going like hell. The first one had me over to the left of the road with idiot behind him pushing me even further to the left where I was just about off the road all together. But we are having fun!
Cross the bridge and head north through Suggan Buggan (I am not making this name up) on C608 through the Snowy River National Park. This is a ride that has to go down as one of magnificent scenery, very narrow cliff roads, not be afraid of heights or riding the edge. And if you meet someone coming from the other direction......flip a coin as to who will back up! Once you are out the NP, you have about 10km of rutted, corrugated, washed gravel until the sealed road. Next stop is Jindabyne for the night. The Family Parks caravan site is the place to be for sunsets off the lake.
Jindabyne to Tumut(NSW)
It was a dry, a bit fresh morning heading south through the Kosciuszko National Park. Another ride that should not be passed up for the beauty of the park and the roads throughout. To keep everything in perspective, it was Jindabyne - Thredo -Khancoban - Tooma - Tumbarumba - Batlow - Tumut. Once you are out of the NP the landscape opens up to soft rolling hills of farm land.
Tumut(NSW)
Two days here for .......I am out of wine and the library only charges $2.00 to use the Internet. Had a small visitor to my tent last night and his deposit was noted this AM. Left to explore the gravel road to Wee Jasper park. For one the gravel road is only and I stress this, only for log trucks. Well down the road I go and just to make sure my directions are correct I stop by a log truck to confirm the map of sorts. Either my hearing got bad or I had another senior moment but following his directions had me completely loss for a better word. We should all be glad that the world is round and that all roads have to go some where. Well 160km's later I finally hit a sealed road, Mrs Mac's lead bottom pies and a cuppa.
Tomorrow I head west to Broken Hill.
The Grey Nomad
Omeo to Orbost
Omeo to Benambra, stopping at the local petrol station for advice. So up the Limestone gravel road we go and maintained in decent shape for farmer traffic. Once we connect to the Benambra road (Alpine National Park) everything goes to hell quickly. Rutted, corrugated, washed out and anything else that comes to mind. Once back to the main gravel road life improves an 100 per cent. Gravel and sealed into Orbost is a comfortable ride. The Orbost caravan site, well the kitchen area would need a fire hose just to clean it up for beginners, then improve the lighting and get rid of the concrete tables and chairs, but who am I to complain when I can wear the same clothes for 7-10 days at a time.
Orbost (Victoria) to Jindabyne (NSW)
First stop was the bakery, I don't know what I consumed but I hit every loo up to the NSW border. With rain and gale force winds behind me it was north on route C612 to Bonang. It was curves all of the way up and all through a forest reserve. I could think of other places to drive but it was there to be driven and it was going where I wanted to go by the end of the day. At Bonang you turn left on C611 for Mckillops Bridge. Now things start to get interesting, we are back to gravel and the road gets really narrow. And being that it was Sunday, I didn't hit any traffic coming my way. I didn't see any traffic until I got to the bridge and then I encounter 6 4WD's with outback trailers going like hell. The first one had me over to the left of the road with idiot behind him pushing me even further to the left where I was just about off the road all together. But we are having fun!
Cross the bridge and head north through Suggan Buggan (I am not making this name up) on C608 through the Snowy River National Park. This is a ride that has to go down as one of magnificent scenery, very narrow cliff roads, not be afraid of heights or riding the edge. And if you meet someone coming from the other direction......flip a coin as to who will back up! Once you are out the NP, you have about 10km of rutted, corrugated, washed gravel until the sealed road. Next stop is Jindabyne for the night. The Family Parks caravan site is the place to be for sunsets off the lake.
Jindabyne to Tumut(NSW)
It was a dry, a bit fresh morning heading south through the Kosciuszko National Park. Another ride that should not be passed up for the beauty of the park and the roads throughout. To keep everything in perspective, it was Jindabyne - Thredo -Khancoban - Tooma - Tumbarumba - Batlow - Tumut. Once you are out of the NP the landscape opens up to soft rolling hills of farm land.
Tumut(NSW)
Two days here for .......I am out of wine and the library only charges $2.00 to use the Internet. Had a small visitor to my tent last night and his deposit was noted this AM. Left to explore the gravel road to Wee Jasper park. For one the gravel road is only and I stress this, only for log trucks. Well down the road I go and just to make sure my directions are correct I stop by a log truck to confirm the map of sorts. Either my hearing got bad or I had another senior moment but following his directions had me completely loss for a better word. We should all be glad that the world is round and that all roads have to go some where. Well 160km's later I finally hit a sealed road, Mrs Mac's lead bottom pies and a cuppa.
Tomorrow I head west to Broken Hill.
The Grey Nomad
Sunday, February 24, 2008
February 24th - Melbourne to Omeo (Victoria)
Melbourne, the city of brotherly love especially at the peak of rush hour.
Melbourne
Into Melbourne it was for the next couple of days. Staying with the Mafioso of chicken feather plucker's for the southern region. The wife runs a hit team of Sicilian goomba's out of chinatown for the local triads. Any how life is good when you don't have to worry about whether or not the tent is going to be wet or dry the next morning. While there the sleeping bag was hung out for a good airing. Unbeknown to me but there was a major die off of flies and birds in the surrounding area.
Melbourne to Wangaratta
With a bit of drizzle on the way out of Melbourne, it was north through Kinglake National Park. Next onto Yea, Seymour, Euroa (pretty boring ride as most of this is on motorway). Heading to Merton (B366) was nice then Mansfield, Whitfield (good) and a finally flat run to Wangaratta. Once off the motorway the roads were interesting and with enough curves to satisfy any biker.
Wangaratta to Omeo
Motorway to Wodonga with a quick turn to Albury. Over the bridge to Hume Dam where the water level has dropped at least 50 meters. Turned for Bellbridge (C542) and followed the Murray Valley Hwy. Following the road as it parallels the Murray River, the GPS is showing me the water level to the roads edge. In reality what you are seeing is dry, dry open land with a very small amount of river water moving through the area.
Once you get near the source of the Murray River, the water is running strong and up to the top of the river bank. This leads us to a bit of a problem; one, are the user's down stream exceeding their limit or two has the volume of annual water from the mountains dropped that much over the last 5-10 years? Me thinks the end user's are probably the biggest problem. Anyhow around to Corryong stopping a bit for mom's apple pie. Next it is route C545 gravel (70km) south to Omeo. Did manage to fall over with bike and all coming out of the petrol station at Corryong. Bike engine cut out and I was already committed to the turn. No damage but did I ever look go! Back to the gravel road to Omeo, good shape and a very enjoyable ride. Pulled into Omeo and it was the caravan site for the next 2 nights.
Omeo
First off on this bright morning we have a flat front tire. This gets taken care of at the petrol station. While at the petrol station a bloke walks over to me and notices the Department of Defense sticker on the bike. Find out that he is a retired Army SAS and had done exchange duty with various US Navy Seal teams in Vietnam. Not knowing whether or not to believe him until he mentions a particular Seal that was my swim buddy while doing underwater trials in Key West, Florida back in the late 1970's. He was killed in the Panama screwup. What a small world! Tire fixed and it was going north via the Blue Duck Hotel, now for sale, until I take the gravel road to Falls Creek. What a nasty patch of road, corrugations to the nth degree. Once you get to the end of the road near Falls Creek, the road does get a bit better reason being that they are in the process of sealing the road altogether.
So, sealed road to Mount Beauty, sun is shinning, next over the mountain to Bright. Getting to Bright the weather gets nasty, you know where I am going with this, take the left for Omeo. It starts to rain, then the fog moves in and the visibility drop's to less then 50 meters. I am in deep .........and the only way I can figure out where I am going is to follow the yellow lines on the road. My speed for the next 2 hours never gets above 20km/h. It had to be the worst driving conditions that I've been in yet in all of my travels in both New Zealand and OZ. Once I got within 15km of Omeo and a major drop in elevation the weather finally cleared up.
Got back to the caravan site and moved myself up to a cabin with a heater. And did it blow and rain that night in Omeo while I watched the late, late night movies and drank a fine glass of wine. Working with due diligence throughout the night, all of the clothes were dry for departure next morn.
The Grey Nomad
Melbourne
Into Melbourne it was for the next couple of days. Staying with the Mafioso of chicken feather plucker's for the southern region. The wife runs a hit team of Sicilian goomba's out of chinatown for the local triads. Any how life is good when you don't have to worry about whether or not the tent is going to be wet or dry the next morning. While there the sleeping bag was hung out for a good airing. Unbeknown to me but there was a major die off of flies and birds in the surrounding area.
Melbourne to Wangaratta
With a bit of drizzle on the way out of Melbourne, it was north through Kinglake National Park. Next onto Yea, Seymour, Euroa (pretty boring ride as most of this is on motorway). Heading to Merton (B366) was nice then Mansfield, Whitfield (good) and a finally flat run to Wangaratta. Once off the motorway the roads were interesting and with enough curves to satisfy any biker.
Wangaratta to Omeo
Motorway to Wodonga with a quick turn to Albury. Over the bridge to Hume Dam where the water level has dropped at least 50 meters. Turned for Bellbridge (C542) and followed the Murray Valley Hwy. Following the road as it parallels the Murray River, the GPS is showing me the water level to the roads edge. In reality what you are seeing is dry, dry open land with a very small amount of river water moving through the area.
Once you get near the source of the Murray River, the water is running strong and up to the top of the river bank. This leads us to a bit of a problem; one, are the user's down stream exceeding their limit or two has the volume of annual water from the mountains dropped that much over the last 5-10 years? Me thinks the end user's are probably the biggest problem. Anyhow around to Corryong stopping a bit for mom's apple pie. Next it is route C545 gravel (70km) south to Omeo. Did manage to fall over with bike and all coming out of the petrol station at Corryong. Bike engine cut out and I was already committed to the turn. No damage but did I ever look go! Back to the gravel road to Omeo, good shape and a very enjoyable ride. Pulled into Omeo and it was the caravan site for the next 2 nights.
Omeo
First off on this bright morning we have a flat front tire. This gets taken care of at the petrol station. While at the petrol station a bloke walks over to me and notices the Department of Defense sticker on the bike. Find out that he is a retired Army SAS and had done exchange duty with various US Navy Seal teams in Vietnam. Not knowing whether or not to believe him until he mentions a particular Seal that was my swim buddy while doing underwater trials in Key West, Florida back in the late 1970's. He was killed in the Panama screwup. What a small world! Tire fixed and it was going north via the Blue Duck Hotel, now for sale, until I take the gravel road to Falls Creek. What a nasty patch of road, corrugations to the nth degree. Once you get to the end of the road near Falls Creek, the road does get a bit better reason being that they are in the process of sealing the road altogether.
So, sealed road to Mount Beauty, sun is shinning, next over the mountain to Bright. Getting to Bright the weather gets nasty, you know where I am going with this, take the left for Omeo. It starts to rain, then the fog moves in and the visibility drop's to less then 50 meters. I am in deep .........and the only way I can figure out where I am going is to follow the yellow lines on the road. My speed for the next 2 hours never gets above 20km/h. It had to be the worst driving conditions that I've been in yet in all of my travels in both New Zealand and OZ. Once I got within 15km of Omeo and a major drop in elevation the weather finally cleared up.
Got back to the caravan site and moved myself up to a cabin with a heater. And did it blow and rain that night in Omeo while I watched the late, late night movies and drank a fine glass of wine. Working with due diligence throughout the night, all of the clothes were dry for departure next morn.
The Grey Nomad
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