Tuesday, February 26, 2008

February 26th - Omeo (Victoria) to Tumut (New South Wales)

As of this date Orbost has the cheapest 2 litre box of wine, matter of fact just about every other store in Orbost has a liquid license .... another factoid worth noting.

Omeo to Orbost
Omeo to Benambra, stopping at the local petrol station for advice. So up the Limestone gravel road we go and maintained in decent shape for farmer traffic. Once we connect to the Benambra road (Alpine National Park) everything goes to hell quickly. Rutted, corrugated, washed out and anything else that comes to mind. Once back to the main gravel road life improves an 100 per cent. Gravel and sealed into Orbost is a comfortable ride. The Orbost caravan site, well the kitchen area would need a fire hose just to clean it up for beginners, then improve the lighting and get rid of the concrete tables and chairs, but who am I to complain when I can wear the same clothes for 7-10 days at a time.

Orbost (Victoria) to Jindabyne (NSW)
First stop was the bakery, I don't know what I consumed but I hit every loo up to the NSW border. With rain and gale force winds behind me it was north on route C612 to Bonang. It was curves all of the way up and all through a forest reserve. I could think of other places to drive but it was there to be driven and it was going where I wanted to go by the end of the day. At Bonang you turn left on C611 for Mckillops Bridge. Now things start to get interesting, we are back to gravel and the road gets really narrow. And being that it was Sunday, I didn't hit any traffic coming my way. I didn't see any traffic until I got to the bridge and then I encounter 6 4WD's with outback trailers going like hell. The first one had me over to the left of the road with idiot behind him pushing me even further to the left where I was just about off the road all together. But we are having fun!

Cross the bridge and head north through Suggan Buggan (I am not making this name up) on C608 through the Snowy River National Park. This is a ride that has to go down as one of magnificent scenery, very narrow cliff roads, not be afraid of heights or riding the edge. And if you meet someone coming from the other direction......flip a coin as to who will back up! Once you are out the NP, you have about 10km of rutted, corrugated, washed gravel until the sealed road. Next stop is Jindabyne for the night. The Family Parks caravan site is the place to be for sunsets off the lake.

Jindabyne to Tumut(NSW)
It was a dry, a bit fresh morning heading south through the Kosciuszko National Park. Another ride that should not be passed up for the beauty of the park and the roads throughout. To keep everything in perspective, it was Jindabyne - Thredo -Khancoban - Tooma - Tumbarumba - Batlow - Tumut. Once you are out of the NP the landscape opens up to soft rolling hills of farm land.

Tumut(NSW)
Two days here for .......I am out of wine and the library only charges $2.00 to use the Internet. Had a small visitor to my tent last night and his deposit was noted this AM. Left to explore the gravel road to Wee Jasper park. For one the gravel road is only and I stress this, only for log trucks. Well down the road I go and just to make sure my directions are correct I stop by a log truck to confirm the map of sorts. Either my hearing got bad or I had another senior moment but following his directions had me completely loss for a better word. We should all be glad that the world is round and that all roads have to go some where. Well 160km's later I finally hit a sealed road, Mrs Mac's lead bottom pies and a cuppa.

Tomorrow I head west to Broken Hill.

The Grey Nomad

Sunday, February 24, 2008

February 24th - Melbourne to Omeo (Victoria)

Melbourne, the city of brotherly love especially at the peak of rush hour.

Melbourne
Into Melbourne it was for the next couple of days. Staying with the Mafioso of chicken feather plucker's for the southern region. The wife runs a hit team of Sicilian goomba's out of chinatown for the local triads. Any how life is good when you don't have to worry about whether or not the tent is going to be wet or dry the next morning. While there the sleeping bag was hung out for a good airing. Unbeknown to me but there was a major die off of flies and birds in the surrounding area.

Melbourne to Wangaratta
With a bit of drizzle on the way out of Melbourne, it was north through Kinglake National Park. Next onto Yea, Seymour, Euroa (pretty boring ride as most of this is on motorway). Heading to Merton (B366) was nice then Mansfield, Whitfield (good) and a finally flat run to Wangaratta. Once off the motorway the roads were interesting and with enough curves to satisfy any biker.

Wangaratta to Omeo
Motorway to Wodonga with a quick turn to Albury. Over the bridge to Hume Dam where the water level has dropped at least 50 meters. Turned for Bellbridge (C542) and followed the Murray Valley Hwy. Following the road as it parallels the Murray River, the GPS is showing me the water level to the roads edge. In reality what you are seeing is dry, dry open land with a very small amount of river water moving through the area.

Once you get near the source of the Murray River, the water is running strong and up to the top of the river bank. This leads us to a bit of a problem; one, are the user's down stream exceeding their limit or two has the volume of annual water from the mountains dropped that much over the last 5-10 years? Me thinks the end user's are probably the biggest problem. Anyhow around to Corryong stopping a bit for mom's apple pie. Next it is route C545 gravel (70km) south to Omeo. Did manage to fall over with bike and all coming out of the petrol station at Corryong. Bike engine cut out and I was already committed to the turn. No damage but did I ever look go! Back to the gravel road to Omeo, good shape and a very enjoyable ride. Pulled into Omeo and it was the caravan site for the next 2 nights.

Omeo
First off on this bright morning we have a flat front tire. This gets taken care of at the petrol station. While at the petrol station a bloke walks over to me and notices the Department of Defense sticker on the bike. Find out that he is a retired Army SAS and had done exchange duty with various US Navy Seal teams in Vietnam. Not knowing whether or not to believe him until he mentions a particular Seal that was my swim buddy while doing underwater trials in Key West, Florida back in the late 1970's. He was killed in the Panama screwup. What a small world! Tire fixed and it was going north via the Blue Duck Hotel, now for sale, until I take the gravel road to Falls Creek. What a nasty patch of road, corrugations to the nth degree. Once you get to the end of the road near Falls Creek, the road does get a bit better reason being that they are in the process of sealing the road altogether.

So, sealed road to Mount Beauty, sun is shinning, next over the mountain to Bright. Getting to Bright the weather gets nasty, you know where I am going with this, take the left for Omeo. It starts to rain, then the fog moves in and the visibility drop's to less then 50 meters. I am in deep .........and the only way I can figure out where I am going is to follow the yellow lines on the road. My speed for the next 2 hours never gets above 20km/h. It had to be the worst driving conditions that I've been in yet in all of my travels in both New Zealand and OZ. Once I got within 15km of Omeo and a major drop in elevation the weather finally cleared up.

Got back to the caravan site and moved myself up to a cabin with a heater. And did it blow and rain that night in Omeo while I watched the late, late night movies and drank a fine glass of wine. Working with due diligence throughout the night, all of the clothes were dry for departure next morn.

The Grey Nomad

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

February 19th Kelso (Tasmania) to Melbourne

Kelso
Ok, its bright and early getting the gear packed before the flies start making their presents know. With Kelso in the rear view mirror and the flies massing for its first assault on the awaking campers I was out of there.

Kelso to Ulvestone
Knowing that it is just a couple of hours drive to the next caravan site. I did my best to eat up as much sealed road as possible going here and there but not doing much but going around in small circles. Into the Investone caravan site for 2 days. Next it was into town to the library for email. At $2 per hour per broadband, air conditioned space and 6-pak of beer at a discount price......does not life get any better then this.

Ulvestone
It was onto Sheffield for the town of murals. Most of the buildings had a painting of sorts pretty much reflecting the area around Sheffield 50-100 years ago. Out of Sheffield heading south before taking a sharp turn to Paradise......2 buildings and a loo but don't blink....Followed the road through Mole Creek and back around to the road that passes Cradle Mtn National Park. Very scenic and worth every pin turn. Following route A10 north we come to Hampshire and back onto a C route. Farm land, rolling hills and actual visual view of possible water in the area with greening of the terrain. Did have a bit of a surprise with the left view bike mirror falling into my hand while traveling at 100kph(60 mph). It must be that German technology that I continue to hear about. Back into Investone and leaving the next morm to Devonport to catch the Spirit of Tasmania for the crossing of the Bass Strait back to Melbourne.

Spirit of Tasmania
Recommend that if you have to cross the Bass Strait do it during the night trip. The day trip is long and boring where the night crossing has you sleeping throughout the night and waking up bright and perky (such a word). Bad breath (beer/wine), smelly clothes and the fresh sense of diesel fuel in the air. The buffet meals on board are worth the cost. Large plate $15.00 and there is no limit as to what type of food you put on or how much. It is a straight cost to size of the plate. Smaller plates are available to you all out there who are still trying to fit in to that super size small...............

Melbourne
Into Melbourne and having GPS direct me to the family I would be staying with for the next couple of days. Of course it was straight through Melbourne at rush hour.......Population of Melbourne 12 mil and every one of them was on the same road I was going on in the same direction! Patience, patience, deep breathing and it will only take 7 hours to cover 30 kilometers and hitting very red light possible.

Got to the home of sorts, drank nasty home brew and listen to stories of lies that just didn't know any bounds.

The Grey Nomad

Thursday, February 14, 2008

February 14th - Port Arthur to Kelso

Since I haven't heard from anyone concerning donating funds for my travels. As I said before, not only am I offering the picture of the most southern loo in OZ but now I will also include a signed sheet of loo paper........... additional sheets at a major discount.

Another piece of factoid: England managed to ship 162,000 convicts over a period of 80 years to Australia and Tasmania. So all of you purist out there best do some background checks to see whether or not you have a checked pass. I know of 2 women that definitely fit the profile, one in Adelaide and the other in Portland. They both have that sly weasel look about them.......

Port Arthur to Coles Bay
Left with clear skies, temps in single digits and Port Arthur in the rear view mirror. Turnoff for Marion Bay(Gravel)-Kelevie-Wielangta Forest and caught an Echidna(mole like ) hot footing it across the road. Another couple had stopped for this bit of entertainment and the conversation got around to the track to Birdsville. Recommendations as to whether or not I get there to have a pint and vehicle sticker depends on the rains and flooding out of Queensland. Getting back to the road to Coles Bay, it was sealed all the way into Coles.

The night at Coles Bay was another wet one. With all of the gear on and temps still in the lower single numbers it was off to Bicheno for a stop at the bakery. After being fortified with coffee and pie it was north to Falmouth, damn it was a cold ride, then a sharp left to St Marys. It was twisty's all of the way and St Mary was cold, right bloody cold. After finding warmth in the bakery it was off to Fingal, Mangana and Rossarden. Rossarden was an old tin mining town that had gone bust years ago. What a hard pressed area with no future. From there Avoca, Royal George (farming but extremely dry) and Meetu Falls Forest Reserve (brutal gravel) and finally Coles Bay.

Coles Bay to Tomahawk
Underway bright and early and the weather was with me. Biheno for breakfast, St Helens, Derby; another tin mining town gone bust but as they are located on the major road through the region, the town has gone up scale with coffee shops and etc. Bridport on the coast was next fueling up for final leg to Tomahawk.

Into Tomahawk and the flies and mosquito's were at their best......Tomahawk had just gone through 7 days of straight rain and the sun was a welcome with open arms.

Next day it was gravel to Gladstone, terrible to the nth, heading north to Cape Portland, excellent dirt road except the road to the camping site. A great place to camp and you are right on the beach. Back to the main gravel road heading for Mt William National Park. A grader was working the road and it was living hell trying to keep the bike up right as the road surface was like soft sand. Made the wrong turn to Ansons Bay, sleepy fishing town with little going for it. Made a quick turn around and definitely didn't want to go back where the grader was working. So it was the gravel road down to St Helens. Does corrugations, mine trucks, dust and anything else come to anyone's mine. With the mine trucks you had to stop or you went blind with dust....a little like the road trains on the mainland(OZ). Did make it back to Tomahawk where the bugs were waiting with relish.

Tomahawk to Kelso
The mosquito's were waiting for me to crawl out of the tent. I couldn't get the gear on the bike fast enough. Back to Bridport for fuel and bakery bits. Next it was B82, boring run, so seeing that there was a gravel road to Low Head, it was a hard right to Lefroy/Beechford then the gravel to Low Head. Low Head is a historic pilot station and money is there. A bit of an upscale retirement community. Next it was through George Town, over the bridge and north to Kelso. Kelso was a great site but for the following.

Flies and a major poop site for both Wombat's and possums. And walking to any building in the caravan site was like going through a mine field. And they wonder why they have flies.........!!? Next day it was out to Bakers Beach at the national park then south to Deloraine. From Deloraine it was further south for the trip around the Great Lake. Damn was it cold at 1100 meters and the lake showed signs of a tremendous lost of water over the last 5 years. Getting around the lake and back to Longford chasing the sun all of the way and getting to lower elevation was all that I could think about. The scenery was worth every cold moment though.

The Grey Nomad

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

February 12th Norfolk to Port Arthur

New Norfolk - Dover
New Norfolk-Glenorchy-Hobart(stopping here to buy that new lens for the camera....it was 3 times the original cost of the old lens!!!) From Hobart up to Mt Wellington and a grand view of the city of Hobart.

Next going south it was a stop in Franklin where it was recommended to stay at the caravan site right across from the wooden boat factory. Well the caravan site had a couple of things going for it..... no showers, the area had only one facet and it only cost $8.00 dollars a day.....Well after a piece of pie, coffee and Mrs Mac's lead sausage I decided that life could be just a bit better at another site. So a bit further down the road to Dover and a proper caravan site for 2 days. The next day it was a run down to Cockle Creek to view the bronze right whale sculpture made by a local woman artist. A fine piece of work and due to a great demand I also photographed the southern most loo in Australia. Copies are available for $50 a piece and a autograph sheet of loo paper to off set the cost of me new camera lens......... Would mention that the road to Cockle Creek has not be graded in the last 25 years and is right miserable ride on with a bike.

Dover to Snug
Left Dover under overcast skies but the ride along the coast was nice. Major fish farming throughout the area. Stopped at Cygnet to check out the caravan site, made one tour of the area and it was the pits .... stopped at the local BP petrol station and his recommendation was Snug on the other side of the peninsula. Being that it was still a bright and sunny day, over the gravel road to Snug. Spent 2 days at Snug exploring all of the gravel roads in the area. I would stay away from the Fish & Chip shop in Snug if you don't mind getting ripped off for a slice of fish that would make McDonald's blush for putting out on the table. The lettuce had more substance then the fish.. And the super market was a joke. It's best to drive 6km to Margate and get a better choice of food.

Bruny Island was on the list while at Snug. Cost of the ferry was $11.50 round trip and Mother Nature was on hand to make sure the day was just full of sun with a light off shore breeze. Not a place to miss on your travels

Snug to Port Arthur
Left Snug with wet gear as it rained all night. Getting through Hobart during the rush hour was a pleasure as if I had 5 cars ahead of me it was unusual. Over the bridge and follow the coastal dirt road over to Dunalley. After that it was sealed road into Port Arthur. As the weather was going to be a bit off for the next couple of days I opted for a cabin. And it rained for the next 2 nights so it was a pleasure to have your gear dry for once. Covered as many gravel roads as possible on the Tasman Peninsula. Found that if I had gone into Nubeena and spent my time there vice Port Arthur not everything closes at 1730.

The Grey Nomad

Saturday, February 2, 2008

February 2nd Stanley to New Norfolk

Did get another endorsement from the Logger truck driver's in Tasmania.... they have guarantee me that they will give me a 25km head start before running me off the road.. Just another happy groupie.

Found out that it was the len's to my camera that was bad. I will accept donations in kind but of any other currency but US dollars.....

Another OZ expression: The Year of the Dot....!

Each caravan sight has what we call the comedy hour. It generally starts around 1500hrs... A gentleman is backing his caravan back into a slot.... this continues for the 25 try and the wife and kids have disappeared by try 10.. Or Mom is directing dad backing the van up and within minutes we find the both of them getting into a pissing match or flipping the bird to each other.

If anyone riding a bike in Tas doesn't grind at least 200 centimeters off his foot pegs.... he is just not having fun

Stanley to Rosebery
Stanley-Kanunnan-Corinna-Savage River-Waratah-Rosebery Out of Stanley with over cast skies and a light drizzle and being that it is Sunday all of the non-believers are either in the pub or church. Very little traffic but as I was heading south and out of the famous Stanley flies, everything was looking up. Finally made the turn on the Western Explorer gravel road (commonly known as the road to no where). It was gravel for the first half of little sharp rocks and loaded as I was thinking that a puncture tire was minutes away....... Got through the gravel but then we hit white clay with a silicon base....... Christ talk about bull dust's big brother. This stuff was slippy and many a turn the only thing that kept me up was either foot down to stabilize the bike. Finally arrived Corinna and back to sealed roads. Getting through Savage River mine site roads it was grinding foot pegs all the way. As the weather had not gotten any better it was into Rosebery(another mining town) where it was backpackers for 2 days. The next day was a quick trip to Cradle Mtn, not to be missed, Reese Dam and Zeehan back to Rosebery. It rains 260 days in Rosebery and specifically on my
bike.

Rosebery - Strahan
Leaving Rosebery, it was cold, very cold, rain and I had every bit of gear on I could wear but it was still cutting through the gear. Not a long ride but once down to sea level and Strahan, the temps did warm up. Next day was Wilderness boat trip down the MacQuarie Harbor, Hells Gate and the Gordon River. Worth every bit of the trip, great photo ops and the food was excellent. And the bottle shop had a 2 litre box of red wine!

Strahan - Bothwell
Left Strahan under overcast skies and a bit of a chill in the air. Through Queenstown, another beautiful mining town with coconut trees in the town center....and was it a bit tight on the turns. Got on the road to Lake St Clair and was it cold........ Lake St Clair that morning recorded a minus 4 Celsius. I was so cold that I ended up buying a polar top just to get the body back to working temperature. Leaving St Clair and headed for Bothwell via Ouse. A gravel road that just invites a great ride. Found the usual dead wombat but what really surprised me was just how dry this particular area was. They talk about just how dry the mainland is welllllllllll Tasmania is suffering just as bad. Got into Bothwell and the caravan sight was a gravel lot behind the church. But the loo did have hot water. The following morning in Bothwell I was scraping ice off my bike and tent.... Just another summer day.

Bothwell - New Norfolk
Gordon Dam was in the cards early. Got there and the dam has lost over 30 meters of water in the last 3 years. It was grind your foot pegs off the bike all the way out and it was cold...... New Norfolk offered a change in temp's and Internet service at the library. The caravan sight was good considering some of the places' I've been at. The showers were on a timer of 5 minutes and when the count got down to the last 90 seconds it was hip hop music to the best.

The Grey Nomad